Thyra Travels: Conquering My Fears in Cambodia 2018

I entered Cambodia with a little hesitation after some bad experiences in Vietnam. “Don’t expect it to be better”, someone had said to me, with which I outwardly reacted: “No way, people will be much more lovely”. Inwardly, I was secretly freaking out that it may be true. Crossing the border via bus (check out that post here), I met great people who were all staying at the same hostel. I made a last minute decision to change my hostel so we could all go get curry and beer together that same night. Things were already feeling more promising.

Phnom Penh

I started my trip in the capital, Phnom Penh. While I was there it was the annual Water Festival, so we were rewarded with busy night markets and boat parades on the river. The people were very friendly and had unreal skills at hacky sack (who knew). Most of what I did was relax and learn the history of Cambodia, specifically about the genocide that occured in the 70s. I was horrified that I had never learned of this in school, yet I could tell you about the life of Constantinople. Which one feels more relevant to world relations in present day…hmmmm, the more I am in Asia the more it disgusts me how we never learn about this part of the world in school. A good book I read that is a personal account of the tragedy is First They Killed My Father by Loung Ung. If you are going to Cambodia I would recommend reading the book before visiting the killing fields and prison museum.

The Islands

(Ft. Sihanoukville)

My next destinations were two islands in southern Cambodia, Koh Rong and Koh Rong Samloem. I was READY for some relaxation. Lucky for me, I had booked a night in the port town of Sihanoukville before my ferry ride because the roads in Cambodia are bad, awful, atrocious and you never get anywhere on time. All of them, even the main highways, consist of hours of broken concrete and constant bumping around in the seat. Although I was glad I didn’t have to rush for the ferry that night, I was less than pleased to be in the city. What a seedy place, this is the only place I have been in five months of travel where I was actually wary to ever leave my hostel (So, I didn’t haha). According to locals, the chinese mafia has moved in. My advice: HARD SKIP.

Early the next morning I departed on the ferry to the first island, where I had booked a bougie tent on a more private beach. What a relaxing time. I read so many books and killed my kindle for good (rest in peace, comrade). All I did for two days was beach, ocean, sun, book, food, repeat. For my next island experience I had booked a more ~social~ hostel dorm room. When I arrived, I was fresh off my latest book, The Gift of Fear by Gavin Becker. This book was amazing, it basically talks about trusting your gut and strategies to read what your subconscious is telling you. I have been traveling for a while now and have gotten, not to toot my own horn, pretty good at reading new people and immediately knowing if I will get along with them. I could tell you countless examples of this. When I meet people, I tend to know right away if we will get beyond the surface talk (Answer: usually not. Although you meet a lot of people traveling, a lot of great, kind souls, only a few will you connect and stay in contact with). I didn’t really have any of those connections with people in the hostel so I fell into a little of a funk because I felt ready for a real connection.

Kampot

Ah, my favorite place I went in Cambodia. A small, little town, usually skipped by people passing through, I loved it here for a few reasons: nice locals, cheap food, and awesome solo travelers. I stayed at a hostel that seemed to be full of solo travelers, to my delight. Fellow solo travelers are easy to connect with and honestly, more down to do things than couples or groups. I ended up really connecting with a girl from Catalonia and we spent days riding on the motorbike, eating fruit, and watching sunsets. It was great.

Battambang

Penultimate stop in Cambodia, I was basically here for one reason: to see the bat caves. I arrived after a night switching buses in Phnom Penh (where I replaced my headphones, RIP babies, you are missed). At my first hostel, I got such a bad feeling and call me crazy OR call me trusting my gut and reading my subconscious indicators, I moved to a different place. This turned out to be the best idea because I met great people who would eventually help me with the impossible: learn how to motorbike. On a fateful morning in western Cambodia, I went to an abandoned airfield and spent the day practicing and learning. After a few hours, I ventured onto the roads and even dirt paths to see the farms. In total, I think I drove for about eight straight hours and I felt comfortable on the bike (in a small, slow town, no Hanoi for me)! I left the city on top of the world.

Siem Reap

The home of Angkor, a giant temple complex, of which Cambodia is most famous for was my final stop. I got the three-day park pass because just how does someone see it all in one day and even did the sunrise and sunset tours to get a complete picture. The town was touristy but cute and fairly cheap for souviners (I am now the owner of two tees that say Cambodia with an Elephant). Angkor itself was amazing, literally breathe taking. It is hard to put into words but everyone should try to visit even though the price is high ($67 for a three-day pass). I spent my time sweating, hiking up temple steps by day and sipping avocado smoothies by night, my ultimate vice. I uploaded a ton of photos on Angkor already on my Instagram (starved_soul) so check it out!

People were so much nicer in Cambodia than Vietnam and these three weeks in the country started to rebuild my thinking that people are (mostly!) nice all around the world (no hate, just my experience in the country, I know others have different opinions). I have been in Thailand volunteering for about a week now and people are even more friendly. It really amazes me. In Vietnam, when I would smile at people I would get a blank stare, but in Thailand people always smile back. Its the small things!

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